Presanella

The highest peak in Trentino

There are two routes to the summit, each with completely different characteristics.

From the south-east – that is, from the Segantini mountain hut – the route climbs up via the Bocchetta del Monte Nero, where a via ferrata has been installed in recent years. Once past the snowfield, this allows us to cross into the Val Nardis, from where we cross another small snowfield and, via further sections of via ferrata, reach the Orobica Bivouac at 3,384 metres. From here, the summit comes into view and, with one final push, you reach the cross.

From the west – that is, from the Denza refuge – the ascent is a purely mountaineering route across a glacier, involving a long and strenuous rope-climbing progression that takes us to the summit via the Freshfield Saddle. Whilst this was once considered an easy ascent, with the retreat of the glaciers it has become a standard route to be tackled with due caution, as many crevasses have opened up and there are often sections of exposed ice to negotiate.
Both are highly rewarding ascents, leading to a summit that is a symbol of Trentino!