Trentino, nestled in the heart of the Italian Alps, is renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, picturesque villages and, of course, its magnificent mountains. A paradise for climbers, this region boasts some of the most challenging and majestic multi-pitch routes in the world. From beginners looking to take their first steps in climbing to experienced climbers seeking their next challenge, the peaks of Trentino have something to offer everyone.
Here we explore five of the region’s most classic and famous multi-pitch routes, which have captivated generations of adventure seekers from all over the world. – Via Kiene at Castelletto Inferiore, Brenta Dolomites: The story of the first ascent of this route is shrouded in myth, and the thought that Ernst and Kurt Kiene conquered this impressive face as early as 1910, using the equipment of the time, is truly breathtaking. It remains a must-climb even today, on grey rock of excellent quality. Grade 5°, length 270m. – “Il Pollice” on the Sassolungo, Fassa Dolomites: for those seeking a balance between technical challenge and natural beauty, Il Pollice is a climb to add to your wish list. This multi-pitch climb is renowned for its exposed ridge, with stunning views of the Fassa Dolomites and Val Gardena as a backdrop. Grade 4°, length 250m. – Spigolo del Velo on Cima della Madonna, Pale di San Martino: nestled in the heart of the Pale di San Martino, the Spigolo del Velo is one of the most famous climbs in the entire Dolomites. Grade 5°+, length 400m.
– The “Incompiuta” route on Monte Colodri, Arco-Valle del Sarca: this recently established route has, in just a few years, gained a considerable reputation, as it offers superb climbing with sustained difficulty throughout. Grade 6°, length 300m. – The “Dibona” route on Roda de Vael, Catinaccio: the mountain guide Angelo Dibona was something of the Alex Honnold of his era, a true master of his craft, and following in his footsteps is always a great pleasure. This great classic on the “red wall” is a must for any self-respecting Dolomite climber. Difficulty: 5°, length: 300m.
This is just a tiny taste of what you can experience in Trentino, where there are tens of thousands of multi-pitch routes. One lifetime is obviously not enough to tackle them all, but whether you’re an experienced mountaineer or a beginner keen to embark on a transformative journey, multi-pitch routes offer you the chance to test your limits, create lasting memories and enjoy the extraordinary beauty of the Dolomites.
If you’d like to climb one of these famous routes with a guide, please fill in the form here on the website or send an email. Happy adventuring from the Mountime guides!
