Matterhorn – Normal Route

The Italian Normal Route is also known as the Cresta del Leone, as the route – which runs almost entirely along the ridge – links Colle del Leone with Pic Tyndall before finally reaching the summit of the Matterhorn at 4,478 m. It is slightly shorter than the Swiss Normal Route, which follows the Hörnli Ridge, but is technically more demanding due to the numerous Grade III and IV sections at high altitude. These sections are equipped with fixed ropes and rope ladders to make them easier to negotiate, but they remain strenuous nonetheless.

On the very first day, whilst approaching the Carrel Hut, you face a key section: the fixed rope on the ‘Cheminée’, the real litmus test to see if you’re up to the climb. The elevation gain on the day of the summit push is less than that of the Hörnli, but you are still moving across technical terrain, where it is essential to be efficient and confident, overcoming difficulties swiftly. The Cresta del Leone is in good condition when the weather is dry – that is, with little snow and ice, as these elements slow down your progress.

It usually takes around 4–5 hours on the first day to climb from the Duca degli Abruzzi Refuge to the Capanna Carrel; on the day of the summit attempt, it takes around 4–5 hours to climb up and 6–7 hours to return to the refuge down in the valley.