Day 1: From Solda, behind the church (1,850 m), a pleasant walk through the woods takes you to the moraine of the Vedretta di Marlet and then on to the Tabaretta mountain hut (2,556 m). Once past the hut, continue towards the Forcella dell’Orso (2,879 m) until you reach the Payer mountain hut (3,020 m).
Day 2: At first light, head south-west, climbing up easy rocky terrain to the small rock face (the most technically challenging section, which is well-bolted). This is followed by a very exposed ridge section. Once past the rocky sections, you cross a steep, often icy slope leading to the glacier at Buca dell’Orso. The crevassed glacier, with a gradient of up to 35 degrees, leads to the Ortles plateau and the summit.
Climbing harness, helmet, harness, ice axe, crampons